Crapos en el Bujo

As much as Oberon Kant’s Big Book of Wine is the greatest book on wine ever written, the BBC’s Posh Nosh is the greatest cooking show ever. It’s a shame they never released a DVD of it (but don’t worry, you can find most episodes on YouTube). I regard Simon Marchmont’s aphorisms as my guiding light in day to day life. “Food without wine? What’s that? It’s absurd.” Or “Useful tip - if you can't afford £16.80 for a kilo of chipolatas, then you shouldn’t really be starting a family.” And of course my vision for the future: “The Quill & Tassel was the first restaurant in Britain to make wine compulsory, with exceptions for drivers and genuine alcoholics with a current AA card.” If only more people obeyed these maxims we would have solved binge drinking and teen pregnancy at least, and have no further need for the Jeremy Kyle Show.

Anyway, out of homage to Simon & Minty as much as anything else, last week I made for myself what I consider to be their greatest dish: “Crapos en el Bujo”. It’s Spanish style Toad in the Hole using chorizo instead of pork sausages. As disappointed as I was that “Crapos en el Bujo” doesn’t actually mean “Toad in the Hole” in Spanish (it doesn’t mean anything in any language as far as I can see – great name for a dish nevertheless), the recipe actually turned out quite well. It’s not unlike a very meaty pizza, with the pizza dough replaced by Yorkshire pudding. Calling for lard, chorizo, salsichon, jamon de Serrano as well as eggs and milk for the batter, it’s also an excellent way to remind your arteries who’s boss.

Anyway, to accompany this excellent dish I chose a 2005 Arrocal Ribera del Duero (£10). Simon recommends “Vina Domal 1980 Rioja”, which I could not obtain, not least because it is a non-existent wine. But the Arrocal was a worthy companion. It’s a nice modern style Tempranillo aged in a mix of French and American oak. Dark colour, it has an abundance of purple, jammy fruit on the nose, but a more evolved palate showing chocolate, plummy fruit, minerals, fresh acid and substantial grip on the finish. A real winner – as much so as the dish.

While we’re at it, two Clare Valley Rieslings from the 2007 vintage. The 2007 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling commends itself to the patrons of Waitrose Bloomsbury for only £9. It is pale straw in colour with good intensity of lime on the nose. The palate begins with tingly acid and shows good herbal intensity. The finish is perhaps a bit broad, vegetal and chalky, and I’ve seen longer finishes on Clare Riesling, but overall not a bad drop. Unfortunately, I can’t help but say that it is vastly overshadowed by the 2007 Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling (£10). One of my old bosses used to say “don’t you dare serve me any of Brian Croser’s soapy shit”. But she was a bitch and I’m glad to say that I demur most strongly on her assessment of this wine, or at least this vintage of it. It has a fantastic nose of orange blossom, lime, lemon, fanta, delicate florality, the palate following, tight and citrussy, with great intensity and incredible minerality on the finish. An utterly convincing example of the style that really shows what Clare Riesling is all about.